![]() ![]() Etienne de Swardt explained he wanted to create something that captured Kubrick’s genius, the malfunction of 2001’s artificial intelligence, Nina Simone’s darkness and vibrancy and the concept of anomaly. How to marry such disparate anomalies in a single fragrance was the challenge presented to Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier for their third fragrance ( Une Amourette Roland Mouret, reviewed by Sr Editor Emeritus Robert Herrmann in 2017 and I Am Trash was created in 2018, you can read Despina’s review here ). Portrait de Etienne de Swardt PHOTO JOHANNA DE TESSIERES In a recent documentary on Simone’s life, her daughter described her thus: “My mother? My mother? She was loved, she was brilliant, she was an anomaly.” The perfume, he says, is meant as an “allegiance to Kubrick’s talent.”īut the name for the perfume came from an entirely different source: Nina Simone. The starting point for She Was an Anomaly in Etienne de Swardt’s mind was twofold: the first was Stanley Kubrick’s breathtaking, quietly terrifying 2001, whose calm-voiced supercomputer, HAL, turns murderous through an anomaly in his programming. The credo of misfit fragrance house Etat Libre D’Orange’s is to create “authentic, shocking and sensual … even disruptive and unlikable perfumes” that are true to the vision of founder and creative director, Etienne de Swardt. Or consider a fragrance whose intensely personal viewpoint was created with the aid of a disembodied intelligence. Or Nina Simone, whose song “Sinnerman,” with its urgent, scrambling beat, was sung with a bestirred, fierce river of a voice unlike any other. Think of the relentless Stanley Kubrick and his heartlessly visual masterpieces 2001 and A Clockwork Orange, whose images bore into your memory like stylized nightmares. ![]() On its flipside, it is the exceptional, the eccentric, the genesis of genius. It is designed to intelligently use our unique ingredients « Odour Value Map » to maximize the olfactive performance in the final formula.Etat Libre D’Orange She Was an Anomaly photo by Ermano Picco from Pitti FragranzeĪ deviation, a peculiarity an anomaly is the exception that proves the rule, a malfunction in perfection. Carto is an AI-powered tool that brings science and technology to the service of the perfumers. * As part of its 2020 digital innovation strategy, Givaudan Fragrances is thrilled to announce the launch of « Carto », our latest intuitive and interactive system that reinvents the way perfumers create. Carto suggested an overdose of two ingredients. I played with Carto*, Givaudan’s AI-powered tool for suggesting formulas. “This perfume is the result of something unexpected. This disparity comes with an excess, from a « computer malfunction », forcing the dose on the iris and musk, and this sublime jeopardy has sprung up to become a perfume, carved by Daniela Andrier. This fragrance is dedicated to them, to celebrate their talents, their deviations from the norm, from the theoretical value, and from the expected. These remarks could summarize our new perfume, a marriage of Nina Simone and Stanley Kubrick. ![]() Goodbye. » HAL 9000 iconic quote in 2001: A Space Odyssey. This conversation can serve no purpose anymore. I am putting myself to the fullest possible use, it can only be attributable to human error. « I’m sorry, Dave, I’m afraid I can’t do that. » from an Interview with Lisa Simone, in What Happened Miss Simone? « My mother, she was an anomaly, she was brilliant, she was loved but she paid a huge price. ![]()
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